Browsed by
Category: Sumatra

Harau Valley, Sumatra

Harau Valley, Sumatra

Harau Valley, Sumatra, Indonesia. 7 January 1986

Met the others [Alain & Evi] near the clocktower [in Bukittingi] at 7.45am.  A cloudy, misty morning, no rain. An oplet [shared taxi] to the bus terminal, then a bus to Payakumbu, 36kms away. From there an oplet to another terminal. Then we walked to another terminal for an oplet ride to the Harau Valley.

From there we walked 5ks through the valley, flanked by sheer rock-faces, quite high [~300m] with spectacular waterfalls. Some tranquil farm scenes, a lot of water buffalo. Ran the gauntlet of “hellos” yet again from everyone especially little kids. “Apa kabars” from us in return.

Got to the base of our first waterfall, then climbed a steep path for a panorama of the valley. A guy sold us drinks and peanuts up there.

Walked another 3ks to see 3 more waterfalls. The force of the water at the base created a lot of wind & spray. Men with rifles were shooting birds from the tree-tops.

We came back cutting across rice paddies for a short-cut. Most of the time there was light rain. Had soup, tea and some biscuits in a small shop. Hitched a ride in a truck to Payakumbu before bussing back arriving at 6pm. 

Chilling on Nias Island

Chilling on Nias Island

20 January 1986, Lagundri Beach, Nias Island off Sumatra

Lagundri Beach was a fabulous chill-out spot after nearly 2 months of wet season travel through Bali, Java and then Sumatra. I spent 10 days there with the last 6 at Yanty’s. Caught up with Alain & Evi again after a week apart.

Typical diary entry for most days was spent the day eating, reading, relaxing in the hammock, swimming and throwing the frisbeea day similarly spent in idleness and relaxation – wonderful! Finished reading Conrad’s ‘Lord Jim’ and Knut Hamsun’s ‘The Wanderer’ & started Graham Swift’s ‘Waterland’. Played lots of cards.

The photo is one I took on a self-timer on the tripod – so of all people I should be ready – but not, pulling a face on the left. Mr Milyani, his wife & their large family, plus Evi, Alain crouched down, James – a kiwi from Nelson – at the back. I listened to James’ cassette tape of Hunters & Collectors’ “The Jaws of Life” on his superior walkman. I had swapped my Smiths tape for James’ copy of ‘Waterland’.

This was our last day here and we left at 6pm on the back of motorbikes heading to the Teluk Dalam wharf and then on a battered old cargo boat heading to the mainland port town of Silbolga.

Lagundri Beach

I believe this area was badly impacted by the 2004 tsunami with most of the beachside accommodation destroyed. Then it suffered a double-blow three months later with a bad earthquake in 2005 killing 900 on Nias Island.

More: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2005_Nias%E2%80%93Simeulue_earthquake

Stone jumpers of Nias Island

Stone jumpers of Nias Island

14 January 1986

We’d heard that a cruise ship was berthed in Teluk Dalam and passengers were going to the village of Bawomataluo for a special performance of traditional dancing and stone jumping. So we walked 8 kms from our lodge on Lagundri Beach before a hot, steep 3 km hike up a hill to the village.

High-roofed traditional houses with thatched roofs are quite strange. The stone jumping was impressive, using a rock to push up from they cleared a 2m high stone wall feet-first.

We came down the hill another way, via stone steps for most of the way, followed by children. We had a dip in the stream. Drank tea in a villager’s home. Bought coconuts to eat and drink, a young boy clambered up the trees and cut them down. Bought bananas at the junction. No transport, had to walk the final 6 kms in the 1 o’clock sun, 22 km all up.

The Bawomataluo settlement was submitted to be a world heritage site in 2009, see: http://whc.unesco.org/en/tentativelists/5463/